Comprehensive Travel Guide to Cyprus, an Island Divided for 50 Years

This July marks 50 years since Turkish forces landed and occupied the northern third of Cyprus, in the name of the Turkish Cypriot minority. Despite ongoing UN-led peace talks, Cyprus remains divided into two parts: the southern Republic of Cyprus, populated mainly by Greek Cypriots, and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), which is only recognized by Turkey.

Historical Background

Cyprus, with its rich history of diverse rulers including Phoenicians, Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, Romans, and Venetians, was under Ottoman control for over 300 years before being annexed by Britain in 1878. The island gained independence in 1960, establishing a power-sharing republic between Greek and Turkish communities. However, unrest led to a Greek-led coup in 1974, followed by a Turkish invasion, splitting the island into its current form.

Tourism Investment in the North

Northern Cyprus is experiencing a surge in tourism investment, particularly from Russian sources. New hotels, including a five-star establishment in the Famagusta/Long Beach area, have opened, with more under construction in Kyrenia and Bafra. The region is also promoting eco-agro tourism and luxury camping. The new Ercan Airport terminal, opened in 2023, is expected to increase visitor numbers, aiming for two million tourists in 2024.

Organized Tours and Practical Considerations

Organized tours, such as Explore Worldwide’s eight-day Walking in Northern Cyprus tour and Responsible Travel’s walking trips, are available. These tours often support local businesses and promote responsible tourism. Travelers should ensure their travel insurance covers both parts of the island. The Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) is valid only in the south. The Turkish lira is used in the north, although euros and sterling are also accepted. The euro is the currency in the south.

Crossing the Border

The island is divided by a 110-mile-long demilitarized buffer zone, known as the Green Line. Crossing points, especially in Nicosia, are straightforward, requiring standard border checks and passport stamps. However, travelers originating from the north and entering the south may face legal issues. Ercan Airport in the north only has flights via Turkey due to its lack of international recognition.

Hire Car Travel

Special insurance is required to drive a hire car from the south to the north, obtainable at checkpoints. Some rental agencies may not permit trans-border travel, so it’s advisable to drop off the car in Nicosia and cross the border on foot or by taxi. Northern rental companies may not allow travel into the south.

Buffer Zone Tours

Nicosia, Europe’s only divided capital, offers tours near the buffer zone, such as those provided by the Home For Cooperation, promoting inter-communal activities. Tours by Locals offers guided trips, including visits to the ‘Ghost Town’ of Varosha and historical sites in Famagusta.

Visitor Numbers

North Cyprus saw 1.854 million visitors in 2023, a 6% increase from 2019. The south had around 3.8 million visitors, with the UK being its largest market, accounting for 34% of total arrivals. UK arrivals increased by 7.4% in 2023 compared to 2022.