The Rise of the Lobster Roll: New England’s Iconic Summer Delight

Few foods symbolize summer in New England like the lobster roll. Originating as a humble meal for fishermen, this savory sandwich has become a regional staple, now available in Hannaford supermarkets for $10 until Labor Day.

With the growth of New England tourism, the lobster roll has risen in popularity, according to Evan Hennessey, a chef in Dover, New Hampshire. Its appeal lies in its rich, ocean-fresh flavor and the convenience of eating it on the go.

Initially, lobsters were so abundant they were considered local fare for coastal residents. However, the lobster roll gained cultural significance as America’s elite began vacationing along the East Coast, especially in Rhode Island. This shift turned lobster into a delicacy, with recipes becoming fashionable by the 1990s.

Despite its popularity, lobster populations are declining, with a 40% drop in the Gulf of Maine over three years. The hardest-hit areas include Buzzard’s Bay and Long Island Sound. Factors such as predation, shell disease, and overfishing contribute to this decline, primarily driven by rising ocean temperatures.

Sustainability measures, including size and trapping limits and releasing breeding females, help maintain lobster populations. Jeremy Collie from the University of Rhode Island encourages consuming sustainably sourced American-caught lobster to support these efforts.

Lobster rolls come in two main styles: Connecticut, served warm with butter, and Maine, served cold with a mayonnaise-lemon juice dressing. The hot dog bun has been the preferred vessel since the 1920s, adding to its accessible charm.

For a taste of both styles, visit Hook + Line in Boston’s Seaport District. Evan Hennessey’s Stages at One Washington offers a gourmet version with a potato bun and smoked butter. In Portland, Maine, Mimi Weissenborn of Sur Lie fills a popover with lobster and corn puree, while Dune Brothers in Providence combines both mayonnaise and warm butter.

The lobster roll, with its mix of simplicity and luxury, continues to evolve. Whether enjoyed at a local shack or an upscale restaurant, it remains a quintessential New England experience.