The beach paradise of Ngapali in Myanmar is in dire straits due to conflict

Myanmar's premier beach resort, once renowned for attracting crowds of vacationers from around the globe, is now facing challenging times as its beaches remain deserted and businesses struggle to stay afloat.

With Myanmar's military restricting access to Ngapali, the number of tourists has plummeted to its lowest level since the COVID-19 pandemic began. The situation has worsened in recent weeks, nearly three years after a military coup toppled the elected government, reigniting Myanmar's complex civil conflict. This was reported by dw.com.

In October, the Arakanese Army, the armed branch of the Rakhine independence movement, launched a joint offensive with two other ethnic armed groups, resulting in the seizure of cities and border posts in the northern part of the country. In response, Myanmar's overstretched military blocked access to the southern state of Rakhine and prohibited boats from leaving the Gulf.

Devastating Impact on Tourism and Fishing

As expected, Ngapali's two primary industries - tourism and fishing - have been severely impacted during what would typically be a peak season. Additionally, food shortages are emerging, fuel supplies are dwindling, and power outages occur daily throughout the country.

"We are uncertain when the road will reopen. Without customers, we are unsure how to sustain ourselves until the rainy season," stated one restaurant owner, highlighting the potential for weeks or even months of financial struggle.

While flights to the nearby Thandwe airport are still operational, international tourists have largely avoided the area since the coup. Domestic tourists typically opt for road travel to Ngapali, a nine-hour journey from Yangon along Myanmar's western coast.

With road closures in place, tourist numbers have plummeted to their lowest levels since the pandemic began. The exclusive Amara Ocean Resort closed due to a lack of guests, while the neighboring Jasmine Resort is operating with only two out of its 96 rooms occupied, despite employing 127 staff members. Many smaller hotels have sent their employees home without pay.

A Favorite Among Russians

Alongside Inle Lake and the ancient city of Bagan, Ngapali Beach was renowned as one of the country's top beaches and was consistently ranked among the world's best by travel agencies.

Presently, the few tourists visiting are predominantly Russian. Myanmar remains one of the few destinations where they can travel freely, albeit under the same restrictions as other tourists in a country currently subject to numerous constraints.

Myanmar's Military Junta Faces Multifaceted Challenges

Even during prior periods of conflict, such as the 2017 refugee crisis or the 2004 tsunami, Ngapali remained relatively untouched. However, the current situation, akin to a pandemic, has brought trade and tourism to a standstill. Unlike earlier crises, access to food and fuel is limited, prices are volatile, and traditional livelihoods like fishing are disrupted.

Now, any food that cannot be locally produced must be airlifted in. Consequently, prices are skyrocketing, with staples like tomatoes and onions doubling or tripling in price. As of mid-December, a bag of rice sold for 100,000 kyats (43.5 euros or 47.6 dollars). Restaurants and shops have closed due to lack of goods or customers.

With the road from Yangon now blocked, obtaining fuel has become even more challenging, as the price of a liter of gasoline has increased tenfold in the last month. It costs even more on the black market. Cooking gas is also running out, and people are resorting to stocking up on charcoal instead.

What are the reasons for the restrictions?

In the fishing village of Jade To, at the southern end of Ngapali Beach, the situation is even more dire. Here, the land juts out into the sea, and there are a hundred or more fishing boats on both sides of the peninsula that are not allowed to leave the shore.

This part of the southern state of Rakhine is the largest fish exporter in the region. Under normal circumstances, boats would come and go throughout the day and night, but with a naval gunboat patrolling the horizon, no one dares to leave. Warning shots were allegedly fired.

Poor at the best of times - the average fisherman here earns about $70 (64 euros) a month - the villagers now get by on food donations from local monasteries or through the initiative of a collective fund, with no apparent help from the government. Others head out into the shallow waters with nets and spears, hoping to catch enough to feed their families one day.