Arequipa: Peru's Culinary Gem Beyond Lima
Lima, Peru's culinary capital, might be the city that dominates the global food scene, but Arequipa, the nation's second city, is emerging as a contender for Peru's next great food city. Rich in hearty stews, alpaca steaks, and innovative pisco sours, Arequipa offers a distinct culinary adventure that diverges from Lima's renowned dishes like ceviche and lomo saltado.
A Creative City for Gastronomy
In 2019, Arequipa was honored as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy, a testament to its unique mestizo gastronomy that marries Indigenous and Spanish influences. This high-altitude city, shadowed by three fertile volcanoes, is a melting pot of culinary traditions that reflect its geographical and cultural diversity.
The Tradition of Picanterías
Picanterías, Arequipa's traditional restaurants, are the cornerstone of the city's gastronomic heritage. Dating back to the 17th century, these establishments began as chicherías serving chicha de güiñapo, a fermented corn beverage. Over time, they evolved to serve spicy dishes designed to complement the drinks, a practice that has continued for centuries.
Today, picanterías are mostly managed by women, known as picanteras, who inherit these establishments from their mothers and grandmothers. However, this cherished tradition is under threat, with the number of picanterías drastically reduced from thousands in the 1800s to about 80 today.
Women Leading the Culinary Scene
Women have played a pivotal role in preserving Arequipa's culinary traditions. Picanteras like Mónica Huerta of Picantería La Nueva Palomino and Saida Villanueva of Picantería La Cau Cau II represent the strength and leadership of women in Arequipa's restaurant scene. Their dedication not only ensures the survival of picanterías but also symbolizes female empowerment and independence.
Innovating While Honoring Tradition
Despite concerns about the future of picanterías, the younger generation is finding innovative ways to keep these traditions alive. Roger Falcón, owner of Victoria Picantería Democrática, represents a new wave of restaurateurs who are blending historical cuisine with modern trends, ensuring that Arequipa's food culture continues to evolve while staying true to its roots.
Arequipa's culinary landscape is both diverse and dynamic, offering a blend of traditional and contemporary dishes that speak to the city's rich history and cultural heritage. From picanterías on the outskirts to fusion restaurants in the historic center, Arequipa is a city where the past and future of Peruvian cuisine converge.
Exploring Arequipa's Gastronomy
For travelers seeking an authentic Peruvian culinary experience beyond Lima, Arequipa presents an exciting and flavorful journey. Whether savoring dishes in a traditional picantería or exploring innovative cuisine in the city's historic center, Arequipa offers a taste of Peru's rich culinary diversity that is sure to captivate and delight.