A Timeless Trek: Exploring the Historic Italian-Austrian Border in the Ortler Alps

Journeying Through History on the Ortler Alps' Glacial Trails

In the serene, frost-laden terrain of Italy’s Ortler Alps, Max Leonard embarks on an extraordinary journey that bridges the past and present. Tracing the White War frontline, Leonard takes us through the scenic yet somber trails, which stand as silent witnesses to the harrowing high-altitude battles of World War I.

Set against the awe-inspiring backdrop of the Ortler Alps, Leonard’s expedition begins in the quaint village of Santa Caterina di Valfurva. The adventure, fueled by an Alpine start, launches into a moonlit trek, revealing breathtaking vistas as the sun crowns the snowy peaks. This picturesque setting is a stark contrast to the region's tumultuous history, where the now-peaceful mountains once resonated with artillery fire during the 1915-1918 White War between Italy and Austria.

Over 100 years ago, these rugged heights served as a formidable barrier, challenging the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies with their daunting altitudes and unforgiving climate. Leonard's journey is more than a physical one; it's an exploration of human endurance and the paradoxical beauty of nature's ferocity, themes he delves into in his book "A Cold Spell: A Human History of Ice."

Following the same paths that soldiers once trod, Leonard and his team venture across treacherous terrain, where remnants of wartime efforts still linger. They encounter an old officers' cabin, now a refuge for mountaineers, and traverse the Zebrù glacier, a strategic location during the war. The experience is a profound one, bridging the gap between the past's icy fortresses and the present's tranquil hiking trails.

The Ortler Pass, soaring at 3,353 meters, offers a poignant moment in Leonard’s journey. Here, amidst the icy gusts, history and geography converge, offering a panoramic view into a bygone era. As Leonard treks towards Eiskofel, the journey becomes a solemn homage to the past, marked by remnants of barbed wire, abandoned artillery, and the slow reveal of historical artifacts, emerging from the retreating glaciers.

Today, these landscapes, nestled within the Stelvio National Park, welcome nature enthusiasts and history buffs alike. Yet, as Leonard reflects on his experience, it’s evident that the echoes of history resound through these mountains, offering a unique and stirring blend of natural beauty and historical reflection.