A Day Trip to Handa Island: Scotland's Seabird Sanctuary

Handa Island off Scotland's far north-west coast becomes a sanctuary for nearly 100,000 seabirds. Guillemots, great skuas, razorbills, and puffins flock here, making it one of the largest breeding colonies in north-western Europe.

Visible from various points along Scotland's coastline, Handa Island sits just 300 meters from the mainland. Visitors can reach it via a 10-minute ferry ride from Tarbet, near the village of Scourie. Upon arrival, the soft white-sand beach and turquoise waters present a serene landscape, yet the island's fame lies in its steep cliffs teeming with seabirds during the breeding season from April to July.

Walking across Handa’s heather-strewn moorland, the world seemed to fade away, accompanied only by the songs of skylarks. On the north coast, at Puffin Bay, the landscape transitions to sheer cliffs of dark Torridonian sandstone. Here, a golden eagle soared overhead, unfazed by the excited onlookers below.

Handa Island’s puffins, though fewer in number, are a significant draw for many visitors. Just west of Puffin Bay lies the Great Stack, a large sandstone tower where many seabirds nest. Despite being early in the season, the ledges were already filled with various birds, and a sighting of a puffin’s orange feet sparked excitement among our group.

"About 80 puffins nest here each year, but their numbers are dwindling," explained ranger Libby Higgins-Washbrook. Predators like guillemots, razorbills, and rats, which swim over from the mainland, threaten their population.

Rangers like Higgins-Washbrook stay on the island from March to September, overseeing volunteers who assist with tasks from monitoring seabird populations to maintaining the island’s infrastructure. Despite the isolation and the need to bring their own food, volunteers find the experience rewarding and life-changing.

The haar (sea mist) rolling in added an eerie quality to the already spectacular landscape, with the seabirds' calls echoing like spectres. Despite challenges like relying on the ferry for supplies and dealing with unpredictable weather, the solitude and natural beauty of Handa make it a unique experience. Watching eider ducks and feeling the sand under my feet, I found myself reluctant to leave when the ferry finally arrived. Handa Island offers a peaceful escape and a unique glimpse into Scotland's natural wonders.